Monday, August 17, 2020

Gold Bluffs Beach and Fern Canyon

Gold Bluffs Beach and nearby Fern Canyon are in Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park just outside of Orick, California. Gold Bluffs Beach is reached by a six mile long dirt road off Davison Road. Fern Canyon is then another 3 miles along a dirt road following Gold Bluffs Beach. We visited on Saturday, August 8, 2020, and I suspect that area is one of the most crowded in Redwoods National and State Parks. In fact, as we were leaving, rangers were blocking incoming traffic because of a lack of parking at Gold Bluffs Beach. 

I was excited to see Gold Bluffs Beach because it is a good place to see Roosevelt elk, harbor seals and porpoises. However, we were there at the wrong time of day, those animals are best seen early in the morning or late afternoon and early evening. We did find a nice spot along Gold Bluffs Beach without any people nearby and walked out to the ocean. It is a beautiful gray sand beach. 


Yellow sand verbenia, a plant I've never seen before, covered portions of the beach. 
It is georgeous. 


Common cat's-ear, another yellow flower, is quite beautiful, particularly close-up. 
Sea rocket is another beautiful flower that thrives on the sand. 

Fern Canyon is a 50 foot deep walled canyon with ferns covering the walls and a small creek running through it. It is a quarter-mile hike from a parking area off Gold Bluffs Beach. Strategically placed boards allowed us to hike without getting our feet wet. We only hiked the bottom end, then took a trail out to the top and followed a rim-trail back to the beginning. It is an amazingly beautiful spot, but part of its allure is dampened by the volume of people within it. It would be really wonderful with many fewer people. 

Bull thistle right before Fern Canyon.

I believe this is red alder on the trail leading to Fern Canyon. 

The beginning of Fern Canyon. 

Western maidenhair ferns cover the walls. 




Whitebark raspberry leaves.


Stink currant leaves.

After leaving the canyon trail and getting up on the rim, we walked through a forest of tall Sitka spruce. Here I look upwards to the tops of these towering giants.

Both Gold Bluffs Beach and Fern Canyon are beautiful, but I was expecting more animal life. That would probably be remedied by doing them at a better time in the day. 

Sunday, August 16, 2020

Stout Grove - Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park

On our recent trip to Redwoods National and State Parks and Kings Canyon and Sequoia National Parks, I think the favorite place for each of us, at least for tree viewing, was Stout Grove in Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park, a 14.4 mile drive northeast of Crescent City which takes about 27 minutes to drive to. It is a .5 or .6 mile loop trail which is just off the Smith River.  

Redwoodhikes claims that it is the "world's most scenic stand of redwoods." We visited early in the morning with first light, but Redwoodhikes says that late afternoon in the summer, about 4:00 p.m. provides the best light. 

The under story is mostly ferns and Redwood sorrel so that the views of the coast redwoods are mostly unobstructed. The redwoods are large, straight and magnificent. The balance of this post is some of my photos.

This was my favorite spot, looking up into the heights of a circle of redwoods. 

Redwood sorrel, a prevalent ground cover. 

Sun cascading into the grove at an angle. 



Sam dwarfed by the surrounding redwoods. 


A redwood that has splintered. 

Judy at the impressive base of a large redwood. 

Sam is just about as tall as this log is in diameter. 

A bigleaf oak


Examining the rings in the cut trunk is fun. 

Western sword fern growing in the trunk of a fallen redwood. 

Western sword fern covers the floor. It is deceptively tall, going up to about my shoulders. 

Saturday, August 15, 2020

False Klamath Cove

False Klamath Cove is a .6 mile stretch of dark gray sand mostly in Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park but with the southern tip in Redwoods National Park, just north of Klamath, California. It is the only area in the Redwoods National and State Parks where Hwy 101 runs directly along the coast, which is why we were compelled to stop. It is gorgeous. We got out and walked along the beach toward the south, watching the gulls on the beach, then into the rocks where we saw crabs, anemone and rocks just off the coast covered in cormorants. There is also a much larger rock, a little further out, covered in white dung and common murre. This area is identified as an Important Bird Area (IBA). An IBA is determined by an internationally agreed-upon criteria as being important for bird populations. In the U.S., those areas are administered by the Audubon Society. The False Klamath IBA  contains 8 seabird species and an estimated 44,925 birds, including double crested cormorants (31), tufted puffins (4), common murre (43,898), Brandt's cormorant (713), western gull (92), pelagic cormorant (115) and pigeon guillemot (72).  The majority of the birds are common murre with over 5,000 breeding pairs. Of course, I didn't know any of this at the time or I would have spent much more time scanning the off-shore rocks. As it was, my 500 mm lense is not functioning right now and I was stuck with my much less powerful 300 mm lense. The photo below shows the cove from the south, looking north.

To the east, into the Pacific, are rocks full of birds. The large one, in particular, is the breading rock for the common murre. 

This rock has double crested cormorants.

An even larger rock has more cormorants and of course the common murre behind it. 

A closer look at the double crested cormorants. 

And I am able to find one Brandt's cormorant. 

The common murre in the next photo are extremely small and blurry, but there are thousands of them on the large rock. 

Our son, Sam, found a hermit crab in the rocks which quickly shed it's shell.

There were lots of ochre sea stars.

And Sam also found a red rock crab. 


There were several common ravens among the rocks. 

And Judy found a sunburst anemone.

I found several kinds of gulls along the beach. One of my favorites is the Heermann's gull which has a dark red bill with a black tip. I only saw a couple of them. 


The prevalent gull is the California gull. Breeding adults have a red spot on the lower bill. The juveniles are mottled brown and white. Second year birds start to get gray on the back and a bluish tint on the upper legs. California gulls later in the first year are checkered in tan and white and darker brown on the lower part of the folded wing. It is amazing that such disparate looking birds are all the same species. 






Finally, in the sand near where we parked our car was a pretty flowering plant known as sea rocket.


I'm glad we stumbled upon this beautiful cove and wish I'd known more about it when we were there. I would love to go back with a better long lense and get photos of birds on the large rock.